The guidebook didn’t have anything nice to say about Chita and everyone in Irkutsk told me there was no point stopping here too. But here I am eating buuz in a yurt, laughing and joking with a lively group of Buryats and having the time of my life.
The transsiberian between Irkutsk and Chita skirts Baikal which should have given spectacular views except that it was very foggy. The only major stop is Ulan-Ude, the capital of Buryatia, republic of the Buryats. Buryats are an aboriginal people to Siberia. Historically they have a strong historic connection with Mongolia so have a similar nomadic lifestyle, language and food. I got off there briefly in the middle of the night to buy some food and right away saw two women in matching traditional Mongolian dress beaming at me as they swaggered down the platform. This station is where the transmongolian branches from the transsiberian. There are souvenir shops selling naff souvenirs from both sides of the border. If you want a little plastic yurt and also a fridge magnet of Red Square, this is the place for you.
I arrived at Chita first thing in the morning. I’m not staying the night here, instead I’m getting the night train at 2am over the Chinese border. The only thing I’d planned to do in Chita was visit the datsan – a tibetan buddhist temple and school. Its a bit of a walk from the town but I was surprised that it’s a lot better than Irkutsk’s datsan. There is a magestic looking pagoda in the centre and several well decorated stupas.
When it was time for lunch I popped into the temple canteen. A secret of the Buddhists in Russia is that all the temples seem to have a canteen that serves amazing buuz (Mongolian and Buryat traditional dumplings) and tea for a stupidly low price. Outside the canteen is a yurt. As I’m paying for my buuz I asked if I can eat in the yurt and they said its fine. The yurt has two dining tables, both occupied. An old man invited me to join him and starts talking to me in German. We eventually end up chatting in a mix of German, Chinese, Russian and English given we don’t have any whole language in common! It turns out he is a retired chemistry teacher. Eventually a group of kids from the other table pluck up the courage to come and say “hello” in English. I engage my teaching skills and try to teach them some phrases. They seem to enjoy it! One of the mothers hands me some tea. Mr Chemistry Teacher wants to take a selfie with me. We all have a merry little lunch.
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It’s evening, I’ve had Georgian food (Irina told me this was a favourite in Soviet Russia along with Uzbek) for dinner and I’m in a dive bar on the edge of town. Everyone in the bar has taken a selfie with me. I impressed them with my knowledge of Russian swear words I picked up when living with a russian junkie in Wythenshawe.
I was brought here by Buryat medical student Aryuna who is keen to practice her English. It was a mistake to try and keep pace drinking with a med student! At least I can get rid of these rubles before crossing the border tomorrow! I know Elizabeta (Lisa) the barmaid short changed me for the last round but I’m passed caring. We stay until Lisa locks up then I stagger off to catch my final train in Russia.
I’m quite sad to be leaving Russia. I definately want to come back. The scenery and the people are amazing. In particular I’ve fallen in love with Buryat culture and hospitality and would like to visit Ulan-Ude next time.
Eastward Ho! 