Ling Tơhan

Gia Lai Folk Festival 2024

This weekend was the Ngày hội văn hóa các dân tộc tỉnh Gia Lai which was a celebration of the indigenous peoples of Gia Lai province. Each of the province’s 14 districts sent a village to represent their culture. They put on displays of crafts, music and dance. There was also festive food for sale: spit roast pig, grilled chicken and com lam (sticky rice cooked inside bamboo)

Yumi’s village was there and they greeted me; there were a lot of familiar faces from the Christmas party as well as one guy who’s a bit of a social media influencer who’s Facebook name is Tarzan, I was surprised to discover he speaks English.

I also caught up with the Dak Doa group, where one of the dancers happened to be a former student of mine from my stint teaching in Dak Doa town. It’s moments like these that make you appreciate the richness of living cultures and the power of self-expression.

Hannah’s Birthday

Sunday marked a special occasion: Hannah’s sixth birthday. We went to “Happy Kids” (think Wacky Warehouse) with a group of her cousins where the staff had set up a special birthday display.

Cacao at Grandma’s

For a birthday present, Hannah got a book about rainforests. While flipping through it, I mentioned to Yumi that I’d never tried cacao fruit before like I saw in the book. She replied that her grandma had a cacao tree brimming with fruit, untouched because nobody really liked them. So that evening, we decided to pay grandma a visit.

Grandma’s cozy home is adorned with cherished family photos and cultural touches like an ethnic woven mat and catholic paintings. Amidst lively chatter in the Jrai language, we embarked on a cacao harvesting adventure in the backyard, disturbing roosting chickens along the way.

Yumi cracked open the cacao fruit’s pumpkin like skin to reveal a cluster of seeds wrapped in white pulp. As I popped one into my mouth, Yumi warned me not to chew the seeds but to suck on them like sweets. Too late! I had already bitten into the seed which was soft like a cashew nut and unpleasantly bitter. We took an armful of fruit back into the living room and I contentedly sucked on the seeds as the women chatted away.

Late night cacao snack

Kontum

Friday was a bit of an adventure. I popped over to Kontum for a couple of reasons. Firstly, to catch up with a mate I met online who’s also teaching English. He’s been busy producing a book of folk stories from the Xodang people (Yumi’s dad is Xodang). He even wrote a paper about it! He kindly gifted me a copy, and you’ll never guess what I gave him in return: cacao fruit! It’s a beautiful book, and I’m itching to dive into it.

Of course, while in Kontum, I couldn’t resist popping by that temple I mentioned before, the one with the legendary tiger. I was pretty sure I got the right spot because they had the photo on the wall that I included in my last article. When I started asking around about the tiger, people gave me these odd looks, like I’d lost the plot. Nobody knew anything about the legendary beast.

Big old tree on the pagoda’s grounds
The photo I included in my previous article about the tiger. I didn’t see this beautiful gate at the site toda

When I was researching the tiger originally, there were alternate versions saying it wasn’t a Buddhist temple but this Catholic church. Could some rogue Buddhists have coopted the story? I’ll have to go and have a look and speak to people there next time I’m in Kontum.

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